This blog post will be somewhat of a live document. It will be updated on products/tools that I own or use in my shop. This is based on my own use and people could have a different opinion which is fine.
Disclaimer: Products on this page are items that I use and are affiliate links. If purchased I will receive a small commission per purchase.
Tuesday, December 30, 2014
Monday, December 29, 2014
Epica Folding Step Stool Review
I received the Epica folding stool today. I actually had some light bulbs that burnt out over the past few weeks and needing to be replaced. It was perfect timing. I was able to use this instead of the huge step stool I have in my shop. It is made of plastic and weighs very little. I was a little hesitant because of the plastic but after using it I was pretty impressed at how sturdy it was and not to mention I weigh 205 pounds.
The Pictures are that of my wife reaching into a cabinet that she was not able to do so without getting on a chair.
PROS
CONS
Disclosure: I was provided this product in exchange for this review, however receipt of a free product has not swayed my opinion.
We store our step stool in one of our cabinets so that it is out of the way and not a nuisance
- Compact design when it is folded up. Its small enough to place in a bottom cabinet or pantry without getting in the way.
- It is very easy to unfold and it also has a handle that can act as a hook for hanging it if you prefer to do it that way.
- There are anti slip pads on the top stop you from sliding or slipping while using it.
- Easy cleaning
- Light weight
- Very durable plastic.
CONS
- When unfolding do not use the handle to help unfold as your fingers get pinched.
Coosh CBT791B Ultra-Slick Bluetooth 4.0 Speaker Review
So I must say this is a great little speaker. I was so surprised at the sound that comes out of this and I couldn't be any more pleased with this. It is very easy to use in my opinion. The rugged design is a plus too. The outer part of the speaker reminds me of a rubber track for a tractor or a track for a tank. When pairing it too my Samsung using the Bluetooth feature I had absolutely no issues what so ever. It comes with a USB charging cable and a Auxiliary cable for phones or devises that don’t have the Bluetooth capability.
One of the options that I was unaware of was that you can answer your phone with it. It only works when the devices are paired and you have NFC activated on your phone. Another great feature is you can pause/stop what you are listening to and the capability of skipping either forwards or backwards to another track.
If you are looking for a Bluetooth enabled speaker I would not pass this one up. You will really enjoy listening to your music from it.
You can purchase the item here at Amazon. Coosh CBT791B Portable Wireless Bluetooth 4.0 Extended Range Speaker with Built in Speakerphone, Rechargeable Battery (Black)
Disclosure: I was provided this product in exchange for this review, however receipt of a free product has not swayed my opinion.
One of the options that I was unaware of was that you can answer your phone with it. It only works when the devices are paired and you have NFC activated on your phone. Another great feature is you can pause/stop what you are listening to and the capability of skipping either forwards or backwards to another track.
If you are looking for a Bluetooth enabled speaker I would not pass this one up. You will really enjoy listening to your music from it.
You can purchase the item here at Amazon. Coosh CBT791B Portable Wireless Bluetooth 4.0 Extended Range Speaker with Built in Speakerphone, Rechargeable Battery (Black)
Disclosure: I was provided this product in exchange for this review, however receipt of a free product has not swayed my opinion.
Tuesday, December 23, 2014
Silicone Heat Resistant Baking/Grilling Gloves Review
So when I received these we were not cooking/baking/grilling anytime soon. I wanted to test these gloves out so I turned on my oven to 425 and waited about 30 minutes. I left a cookie sheet in there to act as if I was baking something. I put on the right glove as it is my dominant hand. I pulled out the pan and had my wife take some pictures and also to time it. I was able to get about 6 seconds. I know this doesn't seem like a long time because it isn't. The fact is that when anyone pulls something out of the oven they use 2 hands which reduces the heat because you are distributing the weight evenly with both hands whereas with one hand all the weight is concentrating on one specific area.
So I stuck the pan back in the oven and waited 10 minutes for it to heat back up and I proceeded to try it again. This time I was able to get almost 11 seconds before I started to feel the heat. These are heat resistant and not heat proof. So expect to feel the heat of the pan within 10 seconds or so.
I am pretty satisfied with how well these actually worked when used correctly. We are going to replace our old pot holders with these as they are easier to clean and a lot safer to use.
You can purchase your pair here on Amazon. AYL® Silicone Heat Resistant Grilling BBQ Gloves Set: #1 Best Value ★ Perfect For Use As Cooking Gloves, Baking, Smoking, Or Potholder ★ For Use on Hot Food in High Temperature In The Kitchen, Use As Grilling Gloves, Oven Gloves, Or Even Camping! ★ Protect Your Hands And Avoid Accidents With Insulated Waterproof Five Fingered Grip ★ Far More Protection And Easier to Use Than Oven Mittens!
Disclosure: I was provided this product in exchange for this review, however receipt of a free product has not swayed my opinion.
Astor Canvas Log Carrier Review
So this might be a bit different then what it was actually intended for. I do not own a fireplace but I do own a pellet stove. I thought this would be great to transport my pellets from the garage into the house and able to carry a full 40 pound bag of pellets. I will try it in the spring time when we have bonfires in the backyard but for now this is what I have to work with.
The bag is made up of a pretty strong canvas and has handles for easy carrying. If I had 2 of these I could bring in two 40 pound bags of pellets instead of one. Before using this I used buckets to transport my pellets. It took me 3 trips to fill my hopper and now it takes only one which is very convenient,
I am able to pour my pellets in the hopper with ease. The handles and the design of the bag make this very possible.
I did test this with scrap lumber that I have in my shop and I was able to carry quite a bit with it. So I am sure this would be a great tool for those who own a fireplace and store their wood outside. I know when I was younger I had a friend who had to bring in firewood for the night and would make several trips carrying the logs in his arms. He was only able to grab a few at a time.
I highly recommend this if you own a fireplace or go camping. It will make life a lot easier for you.
You can purchase it here on amazon Astor Heavyduty Canvas Log Carrier
Disclosure: I was provided this product in exchange for this review, however receipt of a free product has not swayed my opinion.
I am able to pour my pellets in the hopper with ease. The handles and the design of the bag make this very possible.
I did test this with scrap lumber that I have in my shop and I was able to carry quite a bit with it. So I am sure this would be a great tool for those who own a fireplace and store their wood outside. I know when I was younger I had a friend who had to bring in firewood for the night and would make several trips carrying the logs in his arms. He was only able to grab a few at a time.
I highly recommend this if you own a fireplace or go camping. It will make life a lot easier for you.
You can purchase it here on amazon Astor Heavyduty Canvas Log Carrier
Disclosure: I was provided this product in exchange for this review, however receipt of a free product has not swayed my opinion.
Tuesday, December 9, 2014
Types of Log Cuts for Woodworking Projects
Here is some more useful information that I have taken from Wood Working for Dummies
This will help you better understand how a log is cut into boards. I never knew this until I read the information that I am about to pass on to you.
To get a flat board to use in a woodworking project, you have to cut a round log. And you have to do so in a particular way so you can get the grain to run how you want it to. While most people don't have a saw mill to cut their own logs, you'll still want to know the difference in cuts to get the particular grain you want for your woodworking projects. The orientation of the blade in relation to the log and its growth rings determines the type of cut the board ends up with.
You can cut a log in three main ways:
Through and through: This type of milling involves progressively cutting the log from one side to the other.Through and through milling is the simplest and most efficient way to cut a log. Milling through and through results in plain-sawn, rift-sawn, and quarter-sawn boards because the orientation of the growth rings changes as the boards are sliced off the log.
Plain-sawn: Plain-sawn milling involves cutting the log from the outside to the center on all four sides. The very center of the log (the pith) is left alone. Check out the following figure to see the finished log after plain-sawing. This type of milling produces plain-sawn and rift-sawn boards.
Quarter-sawn: Quarter-sawn milling is the least efficient way to cut a log, but it produces some of the best boards. You can mill a quarter-sawn board in two ways: the preferred way (see the left side of the following figure) and the practical way. Unless you have a mill of your own or you own the log and have it milled to your specifications, you’re going to have to live with the practical method of quarter-sawing wood. Don’t worry, this is still a great way to mill a log, and because it’s more efficient than the “preferred” method, it doesn’t cost you an arm and a leg to buy (maybe just the arm). Quarter-sawn boards are more stable and attractive (to most people, anyway) than the other types of boards, but they are much more expensive. They’re also unavailable for some types of wood.
This will help you better understand how a log is cut into boards. I never knew this until I read the information that I am about to pass on to you.
To get a flat board to use in a woodworking project, you have to cut a round log. And you have to do so in a particular way so you can get the grain to run how you want it to. While most people don't have a saw mill to cut their own logs, you'll still want to know the difference in cuts to get the particular grain you want for your woodworking projects. The orientation of the blade in relation to the log and its growth rings determines the type of cut the board ends up with.
You can cut a log in three main ways:
Through and through: This type of milling involves progressively cutting the log from one side to the other.Through and through milling is the simplest and most efficient way to cut a log. Milling through and through results in plain-sawn, rift-sawn, and quarter-sawn boards because the orientation of the growth rings changes as the boards are sliced off the log.
 |
| Cutting a log through and through results in a variety of boards |
Plain-sawn: Plain-sawn milling involves cutting the log from the outside to the center on all four sides. The very center of the log (the pith) is left alone. Check out the following figure to see the finished log after plain-sawing. This type of milling produces plain-sawn and rift-sawn boards.
 |
| Plain-sawn milling results in plain-sawn and rift-sawn boards |
Quarter-sawn: Quarter-sawn milling is the least efficient way to cut a log, but it produces some of the best boards. You can mill a quarter-sawn board in two ways: the preferred way (see the left side of the following figure) and the practical way. Unless you have a mill of your own or you own the log and have it milled to your specifications, you’re going to have to live with the practical method of quarter-sawing wood. Don’t worry, this is still a great way to mill a log, and because it’s more efficient than the “preferred” method, it doesn’t cost you an arm and a leg to buy (maybe just the arm). Quarter-sawn boards are more stable and attractive (to most people, anyway) than the other types of boards, but they are much more expensive. They’re also unavailable for some types of wood.
 |
| Quarter sawing a log can be performed two ways: the preferred method (left) and practical method (right) |
American Hardwood Species
So with all woodworking your main tool that you would need to get anything done is Wood. It might seem really simple but you really need to put some work into what type of wood you need or want. This is all depending on what type of application you are using it for. I have done a lot of reading lately due to having shoulder surgery and what better way to make use of my over abundance of time. So I have researching and reading on what species of wood I would like to use for upcoming projects.
Through out my findings I have found an abundance of information pertaining to all types of species of wood. Some species have a variety of types. If I do not have a species and you would like me to add it please comment below.
Hardwoods are the botanical group of trees that have broad leaves, produce a fruit or nut, and generally go dormant in the winter.
Through out my findings I have found an abundance of information pertaining to all types of species of wood. Some species have a variety of types. If I do not have a species and you would like me to add it please comment below.
Hardwoods are the botanical group of trees that have broad leaves, produce a fruit or nut, and generally go dormant in the winter.
America's temperate climates produce forests with hundreds of hardwood species -- trees that share certain biological characteristics. Although oak, maple and cherry all are types of hardwood trees, for example, they are different species. Together, all the hardwood species represent 40 percent of the trees in the United States.
On the other hand, softwoods, or conifers, from the Latin word meaning "cone-bearing," have needles. Widely available US softwoods include cedar, fir, hemlock, pine, redwood, spruce and cypress. In a home, the softwoods are used primarily as structural lumber such as 2x4s and 2x6s, with some limited decorative applications.
The more one knows about the unique characteristics of wood and its source, the better one can understand the degree of warmth and beauty that it brings to our everyday décor. Furniture made of wood is one of the few things in the world that all people can own and know that they are the only person in the world who owns that particular grain pattern and its inherent beauty. Each grain pattern is a unique masterpiece of design, texture and splendor. Even what some may view as a defect, like a knot or other natural blemishes, can add more beauty and character to any given piece of furniture.
The classification of wood has historically always been either hard wood; any leaf bearing tree, and soft wood; any cone bearing tree. These terms can be confusing since some leaf bearing trees can have very soft wood and some coniferous trees can have very hard woods. To make this easier, below you will find a list of different tree types, classification and then individual wood characteristics.
There are two basic wood grades. Select lumber is excellent quality for use when appearance and finishing are important and common lumber that has defects used for construction and general-purpose projects. The grades of the select lumber are: B and Better grade, which has minute or no blemishes; C Select grade which has some minor defects such as small knots; D select grade that has larger imperfections, which can be concealed by paint. The grades of common lumber are No. 1 grade containing tight knots and few blemishes. No. 2 grade that has more and larger knots and blemishes. No. 3 grade that has loose knots, knotholes, and other flaws. No. 4 grade that is low quality and No. 5 grade where the appearance is not important.
Sampling some softwoods
Softwoods aren't weaker than hardwoods. Softwoods come from coniferous trees such as cedar, fir, and pine and tend to be somewhat yellow or reddish. Because most coniferous trees grow fast and straight, softwoods are generally less expensive than hardwoods. It's also relatively easy to find sustainably grown softwoods (woods grown on tree farms to ensure an endless supply of wood); this means you're not contributing to the deforestation of the world and will always have a supply of wood for your projects.
Following is a list of common softwood varieties and their characteristics.
Cedar
The most common type of cedar is the western red variety. Western red cedar, as its name implies, has a reddish color to it. This type of wood is relatively soft (1 on a scale of 1 to 4), has a straight grain, and has a slightly aromatic smell. Western Red cedar is mostly used for outdoor projects such as furniture, decks, and building exteriors because it can handle moist environments without rotting. Western red cedar is moderately priced and can be found at most home centers.
Fir
Often referred to as Douglas Fir, this wood has a straight, pronounced grain, and has a reddish brown tint to it. Fir is most often used for building; however, it's inexpensive and can be used for some furniture-making as well. It doesn't have the most interesting grain pattern and doesn't take stain very well, so it's best to use it only when you intend to paint the finished product. Douglas fir is moderately strong and hard for a softwood, rating 4 on a scale of 1 to 4. This wood is worth mentioning because it is very common at your local home center and it's so inexpensive you'll probably be tempted to make something with it.
Pine
Pine comes in several varieties, including Ponderosa, Sugar, White, and Yellow, and all of them make great furniture. In some areas of the country (especially southwest United States), pine is the wood to use. Pine is very easy to work with and, because most varieties are relatively soft, it lends itself to carving. Pine generally takes stain very well (as long as you seal the wood first), although Ponderosa pine tends to ooze sap, so be careful when using this stuff. Pine is available from most home centers, but it's often of a lesser grade than what you can find at a decent lumberyard.
Redwood
Like cedar, redwood is used mostly for outdoor projects because of its resistance to moisture. Redwood (California redwood) is fairly soft and has a straight grain. As its name suggests, it has a reddish tint to it. Redwood is easy to work with, is relatively soft (2 on a scale of 1 to 4), and is moderately priced. You can find redwood at your local home center.
Hardwoods
Most woodworkers love to work with hardwoods. The variety of colors, textures, and grain patterns makes for some beautiful and interesting-looking furniture. The downside to hardwoods is their price. Some of the more exotic species can be too expensive to use for anything more than an accent. Some hardwoods are becoming very hard to find and are being harvested without concern to their eventual extinction (Brazilian rosewood comes to mind). Not only is this hard on the environment, it drives the price of the wood so high that making furniture out of it is out of the question for most woodworkers. If you can, try to buy wood from a sustainable forest (commercial tree farms that ensure the supply of the wood). Following is a list of common hardwoods and their characteristics.
Ash
Ash is a white to pale brown wood with a straight grain. It's pretty easy to work with (hardness of 4 on a scale of 1 to 5) and takes stain quite nicely, but ash is getting harder and harder to find. You won't find ash at your local home center — it's only available from larger lumberyards. Ash is a good substitute for white oak.
Birch
Birch comes in two varieties: yellow and white. Yellow birch is a pale yellow-to-white wood with reddish-brown heartwood, whereas white birch has a whiter color that resembles maple. Both types of birch have a hardness of 4 on a scale of 1 to 5. Birch is readily available and less expensive than many other hardwoods. You can find birch at many home centers, although the selection is better at a lumberyard. Birch is stable and easy to work with. However, it's hard to stain because it can get blotchy, so you might prefer to paint anything that you make with birch.
Cherry
Cherry is a very popular and all-around great wood; easy to work with, stains and finishes well with just oil, and ages beautifully. Cherry's heartwood has a reddish-brown color to it and the sapwood is almost white. Cherry has a hardness of 2 on a scale of 1 to 5. This is a very common wood for furniture-making and is available from sustainably grown forests. You won't find cherry at your local home center, so a trip to the lumberyard is necessary if you want to use it. Because it's in demand, cherry is getting somewhat expensive compared to other domestic hardwoods, such as oak and maple.
Mahogany
One of the great furniture woods, mahogany (also called Honduran mahogany) has a reddish-brown to deep-red tint, a straight grain, medium texture, and a hardness of around 2 on a scale of 1 to 5. It takes stain very well and looks great with just a coat (or 10) of oil. The only drawback is that mahogany isn't being grown in sustainable forests. Forget going to your home center to get some — the only place to find mahogany is a decent lumberyard (and it'll cost you).
Maple
Maple comes in two varieties: hard and soft. Both varieties are harder than many other woods; hard maple is so hard (a 5 on a scale of 1 to 5) that it's difficult to work with. Soft maple, on the other hand, is relatively easy to work with. Because of their fine, straight grain, both varieties are more stable than many other woods. They also tend to be less expensive than other hardwoods. You won't find maple at your local home center, but most lumberyards have a good selection of it.
Oak
Oak is one of the most used woods for furniture. Available in two varieties — red and white — oak is strong (hardness of about 4 on a scale of 1 to 5) and easy to work with. White oak is preferred for furniture-making because it has a more attractive figure than red oak. White oak is also resistant to moisture and can be used on outdoor furniture. This is one wood that can be found quarter-sawn (the most stable cutting option available). In fact, quarter-sawn white oak is less expensive than some other hardwoods, like cherry. The grain has a beautiful "ray flake" pattern to it. Red oak can be found at most home centers, but if you want white oak, make a trip to the lumberyard.
Poplar
Poplar is one of the less expensive hardwoods. It's also fairly soft (1 in hardness on a scale of 1 to 5), which makes it easy to work with. Poplar is white with some green or brown streaks in the heartwood. Because poplar is not the most beautiful wood, it's rarely used in fine furniture, and if it is, it's almost always painted. Poplar can be a good choice for drawers (where it won't be seen) because it is stable and inexpensive. You can find poplar at larger home centers, but a lumberyard will have a better selection.
Teak
Teak is becoming rarer as the days go on, but it is the staple for fine outdoor furniture. Teak is highly weather-resistant and beautiful (not to mention expensive — can you believe almost $24 a board foot?). Teak has an oily feel and a golden-brown color. It rates a 3 on a scale of 1 to 5 for hardness and is only available from larger lumberyards and specialty suppliers.
Walnut
With a hardness of about 4 on a 1 to 5 scale, walnut is a rich brown wood that's easy to work with. Unfortunately, walnut is somewhat expensive (usually around $8 a board foot), and finding large boards for big projects is getting difficult. In spite of this, walnut is still a great wood to work with and lends itself nicely for use as accents and inlays to dress up a project. You won't find walnut at your local home center; you may need to special order it from a lumberyard if you want a large quantity.
America's temperate climates produce forests with hundreds of hardwood species -- trees that share certain biological characteristics. Although oak, maple and cherry all are types of hardwood trees, for example, they are different species. Together, all the hardwood species represent 40 percent of the trees in the United States.
On the other hand, softwoods, or conifers, from the Latin word meaning "cone-bearing," have needles. Widely available US softwoods include cedar, fir, hemlock, pine, redwood, spruce and cypress. In a home, the softwoods are used primarily as structural lumber such as 2x4s and 2x6s, with some limited decorative applications.
The more one knows about the unique characteristics of wood and its source, the better one can understand the degree of warmth and beauty that it brings to our everyday décor. Furniture made of wood is one of the few things in the world that all people can own and know that they are the only person in the world who owns that particular grain pattern and its inherent beauty. Each grain pattern is a unique masterpiece of design, texture and splendor. Even what some may view as a defect, like a knot or other natural blemishes, can add more beauty and character to any given piece of furniture.
The classification of wood has historically always been either hard wood; any leaf bearing tree, and soft wood; any cone bearing tree. These terms can be confusing since some leaf bearing trees can have very soft wood and some coniferous trees can have very hard woods. To make this easier, below you will find a list of different tree types, classification and then individual wood characteristics.
There are two basic wood grades. Select lumber is excellent quality for use when appearance and finishing are important and common lumber that has defects used for construction and general-purpose projects. The grades of the select lumber are: B and Better grade, which has minute or no blemishes; C Select grade which has some minor defects such as small knots; D select grade that has larger imperfections, which can be concealed by paint. The grades of common lumber are No. 1 grade containing tight knots and few blemishes. No. 2 grade that has more and larger knots and blemishes. No. 3 grade that has loose knots, knotholes, and other flaws. No. 4 grade that is low quality and No. 5 grade where the appearance is not important.
Softwoods aren't weaker than hardwoods. Softwoods come from coniferous trees such as cedar, fir, and pine and tend to be somewhat yellow or reddish. Because most coniferous trees grow fast and straight, softwoods are generally less expensive than hardwoods. It's also relatively easy to find sustainably grown softwoods (woods grown on tree farms to ensure an endless supply of wood); this means you're not contributing to the deforestation of the world and will always have a supply of wood for your projects.
Following is a list of common softwood varieties and their characteristics.
Cedar
The most common type of cedar is the western red variety. Western red cedar, as its name implies, has a reddish color to it. This type of wood is relatively soft (1 on a scale of 1 to 4), has a straight grain, and has a slightly aromatic smell. Western Red cedar is mostly used for outdoor projects such as furniture, decks, and building exteriors because it can handle moist environments without rotting. Western red cedar is moderately priced and can be found at most home centers.
Fir
Often referred to as Douglas Fir, this wood has a straight, pronounced grain, and has a reddish brown tint to it. Fir is most often used for building; however, it's inexpensive and can be used for some furniture-making as well. It doesn't have the most interesting grain pattern and doesn't take stain very well, so it's best to use it only when you intend to paint the finished product. Douglas fir is moderately strong and hard for a softwood, rating 4 on a scale of 1 to 4. This wood is worth mentioning because it is very common at your local home center and it's so inexpensive you'll probably be tempted to make something with it.
Pine
Pine comes in several varieties, including Ponderosa, Sugar, White, and Yellow, and all of them make great furniture. In some areas of the country (especially southwest United States), pine is the wood to use. Pine is very easy to work with and, because most varieties are relatively soft, it lends itself to carving. Pine generally takes stain very well (as long as you seal the wood first), although Ponderosa pine tends to ooze sap, so be careful when using this stuff. Pine is available from most home centers, but it's often of a lesser grade than what you can find at a decent lumberyard.
Redwood
Like cedar, redwood is used mostly for outdoor projects because of its resistance to moisture. Redwood (California redwood) is fairly soft and has a straight grain. As its name suggests, it has a reddish tint to it. Redwood is easy to work with, is relatively soft (2 on a scale of 1 to 4), and is moderately priced. You can find redwood at your local home center.
Hardwoods
Most woodworkers love to work with hardwoods. The variety of colors, textures, and grain patterns makes for some beautiful and interesting-looking furniture. The downside to hardwoods is their price. Some of the more exotic species can be too expensive to use for anything more than an accent. Some hardwoods are becoming very hard to find and are being harvested without concern to their eventual extinction (Brazilian rosewood comes to mind). Not only is this hard on the environment, it drives the price of the wood so high that making furniture out of it is out of the question for most woodworkers. If you can, try to buy wood from a sustainable forest (commercial tree farms that ensure the supply of the wood). Following is a list of common hardwoods and their characteristics.
Ash
Ash is a white to pale brown wood with a straight grain. It's pretty easy to work with (hardness of 4 on a scale of 1 to 5) and takes stain quite nicely, but ash is getting harder and harder to find. You won't find ash at your local home center — it's only available from larger lumberyards. Ash is a good substitute for white oak.
Birch
Birch comes in two varieties: yellow and white. Yellow birch is a pale yellow-to-white wood with reddish-brown heartwood, whereas white birch has a whiter color that resembles maple. Both types of birch have a hardness of 4 on a scale of 1 to 5. Birch is readily available and less expensive than many other hardwoods. You can find birch at many home centers, although the selection is better at a lumberyard. Birch is stable and easy to work with. However, it's hard to stain because it can get blotchy, so you might prefer to paint anything that you make with birch.
Cherry
Cherry is a very popular and all-around great wood; easy to work with, stains and finishes well with just oil, and ages beautifully. Cherry's heartwood has a reddish-brown color to it and the sapwood is almost white. Cherry has a hardness of 2 on a scale of 1 to 5. This is a very common wood for furniture-making and is available from sustainably grown forests. You won't find cherry at your local home center, so a trip to the lumberyard is necessary if you want to use it. Because it's in demand, cherry is getting somewhat expensive compared to other domestic hardwoods, such as oak and maple.
Mahogany
One of the great furniture woods, mahogany (also called Honduran mahogany) has a reddish-brown to deep-red tint, a straight grain, medium texture, and a hardness of around 2 on a scale of 1 to 5. It takes stain very well and looks great with just a coat (or 10) of oil. The only drawback is that mahogany isn't being grown in sustainable forests. Forget going to your home center to get some — the only place to find mahogany is a decent lumberyard (and it'll cost you).
Maple
Maple comes in two varieties: hard and soft. Both varieties are harder than many other woods; hard maple is so hard (a 5 on a scale of 1 to 5) that it's difficult to work with. Soft maple, on the other hand, is relatively easy to work with. Because of their fine, straight grain, both varieties are more stable than many other woods. They also tend to be less expensive than other hardwoods. You won't find maple at your local home center, but most lumberyards have a good selection of it.
Oak
Oak is one of the most used woods for furniture. Available in two varieties — red and white — oak is strong (hardness of about 4 on a scale of 1 to 5) and easy to work with. White oak is preferred for furniture-making because it has a more attractive figure than red oak. White oak is also resistant to moisture and can be used on outdoor furniture. This is one wood that can be found quarter-sawn (the most stable cutting option available). In fact, quarter-sawn white oak is less expensive than some other hardwoods, like cherry. The grain has a beautiful "ray flake" pattern to it. Red oak can be found at most home centers, but if you want white oak, make a trip to the lumberyard.
Poplar
Poplar is one of the less expensive hardwoods. It's also fairly soft (1 in hardness on a scale of 1 to 5), which makes it easy to work with. Poplar is white with some green or brown streaks in the heartwood. Because poplar is not the most beautiful wood, it's rarely used in fine furniture, and if it is, it's almost always painted. Poplar can be a good choice for drawers (where it won't be seen) because it is stable and inexpensive. You can find poplar at larger home centers, but a lumberyard will have a better selection.
Teak
Teak is becoming rarer as the days go on, but it is the staple for fine outdoor furniture. Teak is highly weather-resistant and beautiful (not to mention expensive — can you believe almost $24 a board foot?). Teak has an oily feel and a golden-brown color. It rates a 3 on a scale of 1 to 5 for hardness and is only available from larger lumberyards and specialty suppliers.
Walnut
With a hardness of about 4 on a 1 to 5 scale, walnut is a rich brown wood that's easy to work with. Unfortunately, walnut is somewhat expensive (usually around $8 a board foot), and finding large boards for big projects is getting difficult. In spite of this, walnut is still a great wood to work with and lends itself nicely for use as accents and inlays to dress up a project. You won't find walnut at your local home center; you may need to special order it from a lumberyard if you want a large quantity.
Tuesday, December 2, 2014
Lumber Buying Guide
So with me being somewhat new to my hobby(woodworking). I find myself in the predicament on what type of wood I will use with my project. Granted I have not done that many projects but it is nice to know ahead of time what type of wood is would be good for what project. I have done some research and the information below is credited to Lowe's
More posts to come about the types of species and what type of application they are used for.
Lumber Buying Guide
Choosing the right wood for your woodworking or construction project may seem like a daunting task, but it's actually not as hard as it seems. Woodworking can be easy and a whole lot of fun. The key element is the wood. Here's the information you need to get started.
Wood Basics
There are basically two kinds of wood from which to choose: hardwoods and softwoods. In addition, there are certain characteristics that are common in all wood types.
Hardwoods are the deciduous trees that lose their leaves in the fall. Although there is an abundant variety, only 200 are plentiful and pliable enough for woodworking. Much like our skin, hardwoods have microscopic pores on the surface. The size of these pores determines the grain pattern and texture. Because of this, hardwoods are classified by pore openings as either: Closed Grained (smaller pores), like cherry and maple or Ring Porous (larger pores), like oak, ash or poplar.
Softwoods come from coniferous trees, commonly referred to as evergreen trees. Only 25 percent of all softwoods are used in woodworking. All softwoods have a closed grain (small pores) that is not very noticeable in the finished product. The most popular softwoods are cedar, fir, pine and spruce.
Lumber is separated into a variety of products.
Treated Lumber
Treated lumber is produced for exterior use only and pressure treated for ground or above ground contact. It is resistant to rotting and insect damage. Boards can be painted or stained. Make sure you choose the right fastener (galvanized or stainless steel) when working with treated lumber.
Dimensional Lumber and Studs
Dimensional lumber and studs are milled on all four sides. Available in different lengths, these products are used for a wide number of wood projects and construction.
Plywood and OSB Panels
Plywood and OSB panels are manufactured (engineered) from
various wood products and by-products. Plywood is produced by layering thin sheets of wood. Oriented strand board (OSB) is made from flakes or chips of wood. Both are made with glue or resin and cured under heat and pressure. These products are used for shelving, subfloors, sheathing and a number of other applications.
Boards
Boards include a broad category of products used for light construction, crafts, woodworking projects, cabinetry, furniture, shelving, internal joinery and moulding. Boards can be stained or painted. Larger boards may be edge-glued (two or more boards glued together to provide a wider size) or solid.
Hardwood Grades
Grading designation depends on the number of defects in a board. A lower grade can be perfectly acceptable, depending on placement and usage. Hardwoods are graded by the National Hardwood Lumber Association. Here's a chart to help explain the grading system. Grades are listed from highest to lowest.
Softwood Grades
Softwoods are divided into two categories: dimensional lumber, with a grade based on strength, and appearance boards, which are typically used for woodworking projects. Grades listed here are from highest to lowest.
Grade Stamp
While lumber of the same species and size is at the mill, it is designated and separated by grade. It is then identified by a stamp and often inventoried by its grade and species. When selecting wood, be sure you look for its grading stamp because different lumberyards sometimes use different names for the same grade. Remember, if you are having trouble figuring it all out, ask for help. Grade designations depend on particular defects such as knots or wane. Keep your project final results in mind when selecting the grade of wood. Grade does not indicate consistency of color or grain patterns.
Manufacturer: Mill's number, name or symbol. (ex. 12)
Certification mark: Symbol of agency providing quality control supervision. (ex. WWP®)
Grade: Often abbreviated. 1 Common shown. (ex. 1COM)
Moisture content (MC): Abbreviations for MC when board surfaced: MC 15 is 15 percent or less; KD or S-DRY is 19 percent or less; S-GRN is green wood with more than 19 percent MC. (Ex. S-DRY)
Species mark: Symbol or abbreviation for types of tree.
More posts to come about the types of species and what type of application they are used for.
Lumber Buying Guide
Choosing the right wood for your woodworking or construction project may seem like a daunting task, but it's actually not as hard as it seems. Woodworking can be easy and a whole lot of fun. The key element is the wood. Here's the information you need to get started.Wood Basics
There are basically two kinds of wood from which to choose: hardwoods and softwoods. In addition, there are certain characteristics that are common in all wood types.Hardwoods are the deciduous trees that lose their leaves in the fall. Although there is an abundant variety, only 200 are plentiful and pliable enough for woodworking. Much like our skin, hardwoods have microscopic pores on the surface. The size of these pores determines the grain pattern and texture. Because of this, hardwoods are classified by pore openings as either: Closed Grained (smaller pores), like cherry and maple or Ring Porous (larger pores), like oak, ash or poplar.
Softwoods come from coniferous trees, commonly referred to as evergreen trees. Only 25 percent of all softwoods are used in woodworking. All softwoods have a closed grain (small pores) that is not very noticeable in the finished product. The most popular softwoods are cedar, fir, pine and spruce.
Lumber is separated into a variety of products.
Treated Lumber
Treated lumber is produced for exterior use only and pressure treated for ground or above ground contact. It is resistant to rotting and insect damage. Boards can be painted or stained. Make sure you choose the right fastener (galvanized or stainless steel) when working with treated lumber.
Decking
Decking includes floor boards and railing, either composite or treated lumber. Composite decking is manufactured from wood by products and plastic. It is denser, heavier and longer lasting (and more expensive) than treated wood. Decking products are milled with rounded edges, ready to cut and install.
Decking includes floor boards and railing, either composite or treated lumber. Composite decking is manufactured from wood by products and plastic. It is denser, heavier and longer lasting (and more expensive) than treated wood. Decking products are milled with rounded edges, ready to cut and install.
Dimensional Lumber and Studs
Dimensional lumber and studs are milled on all four sides. Available in different lengths, these products are used for a wide number of wood projects and construction.
Plywood and OSB Panels
Plywood and OSB panels are manufactured (engineered) from
various wood products and by-products. Plywood is produced by layering thin sheets of wood. Oriented strand board (OSB) is made from flakes or chips of wood. Both are made with glue or resin and cured under heat and pressure. These products are used for shelving, subfloors, sheathing and a number of other applications.
Boards
Boards include a broad category of products used for light construction, crafts, woodworking projects, cabinetry, furniture, shelving, internal joinery and moulding. Boards can be stained or painted. Larger boards may be edge-glued (two or more boards glued together to provide a wider size) or solid.
Hardwood Grades
Grading designation depends on the number of defects in a board. A lower grade can be perfectly acceptable, depending on placement and usage. Hardwoods are graded by the National Hardwood Lumber Association. Here's a chart to help explain the grading system. Grades are listed from highest to lowest.
Grade Name
|
Abbreviation
|
Minimum Board Size
|
% Usable Material On One Face
|
First and Seconds | FAS | 6-in x 8-in | 83 |
Select | Sel | 4-in x 6-in | 83 |
#1 Common | #1 Com | 3-in x 4-in | 66 |
#2 Common | #2 Com | 3-in x 4-in |
50
|
Softwood Grades
Softwoods are divided into two categories: dimensional lumber, with a grade based on strength, and appearance boards, which are typically used for woodworking projects. Grades listed here are from highest to lowest.
| Grade | What It Means |
C Select
|
Almost completely clear of defects. Widely used for interior trim and cabinets.
|
D Select
|
Fine appearance, similar to C Select. May have dime-sized knots.
|
| 1 Common |
Best material for high quality pine with a knotty look. Knots will be tight, meaning they won't fall out, and are generally small.
|
2 Common
|
Tight knots, but larger than found in 1 Common. Often used for paneling and shelving. Very suitable for general woodworking projects.
|
3 Common
|
Knots larger than in 2 Common. Also used for paneling and shelving, but especially well-suited for fences, boxes and crates.
|
Grade Stamp
While lumber of the same species and size is at the mill, it is designated and separated by grade. It is then identified by a stamp and often inventoried by its grade and species. When selecting wood, be sure you look for its grading stamp because different lumberyards sometimes use different names for the same grade. Remember, if you are having trouble figuring it all out, ask for help. Grade designations depend on particular defects such as knots or wane. Keep your project final results in mind when selecting the grade of wood. Grade does not indicate consistency of color or grain patterns.
Manufacturer: Mill's number, name or symbol. (ex. 12)
Certification mark: Symbol of agency providing quality control supervision. (ex. WWP®)
Grade: Often abbreviated. 1 Common shown. (ex. 1COM)
Moisture content (MC): Abbreviations for MC when board surfaced: MC 15 is 15 percent or less; KD or S-DRY is 19 percent or less; S-GRN is green wood with more than 19 percent MC. (Ex. S-DRY)
Species mark: Symbol or abbreviation for types of tree.
Lumber Definitions
Density
Heavy woods like oak are identified by their weight and tight grain pattern and resist wear, dents and
scratches better than softwoods.
Texture
Texture is the wood property that determines the condition of the surface and its stability. It plays an important role in deciding how a wood is finished.
Color
Color contributes to the personality of wood. For example, red cedar will give you a very different look and character than white pine.
Wood Grain
Each tree has its own grain pattern, so two boards of the same species can look very different. Wood grain is the direction in which the wood cell fibers grow. These variances in grain direction can have a significant impact on your project.
The grain direction is important to consider when building either structural projects or decorative projects such as furniture or crafts. For instance, when working on a structural application, a straight-grained board is generally the strongest. In more decorative projects, grain with varying characteristics can add beauty and personality to the project. Grain pattern density determines strength. As you'd expect, a piece of lumber with a tight pattern is stronger than one with a loose grain pattern.
Common Defects
Defects in wood are natural and appreciated by many woodworkers for the unique character they contribute. However, defects in structural lumber should be kept to a minimum. Below, you'll find a list of common defects in lumber.
Heavy woods like oak are identified by their weight and tight grain pattern and resist wear, dents and
scratches better than softwoods.
Texture
Texture is the wood property that determines the condition of the surface and its stability. It plays an important role in deciding how a wood is finished.
Color
Color contributes to the personality of wood. For example, red cedar will give you a very different look and character than white pine.
Wood Grain
Each tree has its own grain pattern, so two boards of the same species can look very different. Wood grain is the direction in which the wood cell fibers grow. These variances in grain direction can have a significant impact on your project.
The grain direction is important to consider when building either structural projects or decorative projects such as furniture or crafts. For instance, when working on a structural application, a straight-grained board is generally the strongest. In more decorative projects, grain with varying characteristics can add beauty and personality to the project. Grain pattern density determines strength. As you'd expect, a piece of lumber with a tight pattern is stronger than one with a loose grain pattern.
Common Defects
Defects in wood are natural and appreciated by many woodworkers for the unique character they contribute. However, defects in structural lumber should be kept to a minimum. Below, you'll find a list of common defects in lumber.
Bow
Warp on the face of a board from end to end.
Cup
Hollow across the face of a board.
Crook
Warp along the edge line, also known as crown.
Knot or Knothole
A tight knot is usually not a problem. A loose or dead knot, surrounded by a dark ring, may fall out or may have already left a hole.
Split
Crack going all the way through the piece of wood, commonly at the ends.
Twist
Multiple bends in a board.
Check
Crack along the wood's annual growth rings, not passing through the entire thickness of the wood.
Shake
Separation of grain between the growth rings, often extending along the board's face and sometimes below its surface.
Wane
Missing wood or untrimmed bark along the edge or corner of the piece.
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